🔗 Share this article

When curating a list of London’s best restaurants, one might anticipate renowned award-winning establishments. However, situated near the top among these culinary giants is a modest salonu found in a outlying corner of north London.

A Unexpected Accolade

This little Turkish spot, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a influential gastronomic guide. This honour has made the proprietors completely surprised.

“I’m totally shocked,” states a proprietor, alluding to his family’s relentless work that resulted in their small shop achieving such a lofty ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

The small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its transformation into a popular destination, has retained much of its earlier character. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking performance, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” comments the owner.

The Signature Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it is all down to the cuisine, and this eatery more than excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a succulent texture.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. Once the meaty mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is folded neatly inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic called this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a richer, more aromatic and not overly sweet profile.

Outranking the Titans

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the peak of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, similar experiences at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.

The Philosophy of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I do not subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a role of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to show what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum was extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a life outside work but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

A Recognition for the Culture

This restaurant’s success is bound to have meaning beyond its own doors. “I think numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the wider importance of this culinary honour.